Hi- I am interested in fostering (and then adopting) a beautiful mama cat and her kittens. Right now they are living with another foster mom who works for a rescue organization. All the cats have ringworm and are being treated with miconazole shampoo (3 times a week) and another anti-fungal daily (I can't remember the name.) My question is this: how long are they going to be contagious? I have 2 small children and I have read about how easily ringworm is transmitted and how difficult it can be to get rid of (both on people and animals, especially in a house with carpet.) Is there a certain amount of time they need, or is ringworm cleared up faster for some cats than others? Once the spots are dried up can it still spread? Do I need to take them to a vet to check? I am very eager to get the kitties, but I want to make sure they are not contagious.
Thanks for any advice!
ringworm question?
Re: ringworm question?
It's pretty contagious, I got a spot on my elbow from medicating ringworm kittens! The cats get over it in a month or so and mine went away pretty quick because I DROWNED it in Lotrimin Ultra 
I found this link, but I bet Traci has more info for you soon!
http://www.fabcats.org/owners/infosheet ... gworm.html
I found this link, but I bet Traci has more info for you soon!
http://www.fabcats.org/owners/infosheet ... gworm.html
Re: ringworm question?
When were they diagnosed, and were they diagnosed via culture or wood's lamp alone? The wood's lamp is not an accurate method of diagnosis so its important the vet used cultures. How old is the queen and how old are the kittens? How many kittens are there?
Depending on the overall health status of both queen and kittens, as well as when the treatment started (as well as type of treatment), will depend on how long it will take to eradicate. In a shelter environment, this may take longer because adequate disinfection measures are not always done appropriately or diligently. Stress in the environment can also affect resolution, and since the queen/kittens have been or will have been in multiple environments, the stress factor is increased. Once you aquire them however, and if there are no other pets in the home, you will probably have a better chance at resolving this sooner.
Disinfect any porous surface daily (countertops, litterboxes, tile floors, etc) with a solution of bleach and water (1 part bleach to 32 parts water, please do NOT make this dilution any stronger since bleach is harsh on cats' sensitive mucous membranes etc). Vacuum carpet and rugs and furniture daily, and remove the vacuum bag daily (in trash, outside of the house). If you use towels, blankets, etc, wash them daily with bleach in the washing machine and hot water. Toys used should only be those that can be washed and dried.
Ideally, the queen/kittens should be isolated to one room or area so that you can concentrate on this area alone for disinfection. The room however, should be large enough to accomodate them all (so they can exercise and roam and play), and with food/water dishes and litterboxes on the opposite side of the room. Litterboxes should be scooped frequently each day, and thoroughly cleaned and rinsed and dried once a day, to prevent spores from spreading. Cat carriers or cages need to be disinfected as well, with the bleach and water solution and allowed to air dry if possible. If the kittens are really young and are crawling in food/water dishes etc, the dishes should be cleaned and rinsed daily as well.
Do not mix cleaners, nor use heavy scented cleaner products. Bleach and water only should be effective. Again, keep the solution diluted since you will be using it on nearly everything and in a confined area, you don't want the queen/kittens to become ill with the bleach smell or nauseated or in contact with the bleach.
I would not allow your young children to handle the kittens until treatment has been effective and that negative cultures have been obtained. As for you, you should wear gloves and a smock that you can wear in that room only (wash it daily if possible). Wash your hands and arms with bacterial soap if necessary after handling, but if you don't wear gloves when cleaning etc and take care to keep the area disinfected, you may become infected. If you feel or determine you are getting infected (rash), see your physician immediately for treatment.
If proper disinfection measures are done on a daily basis, and if the queen/kittens are in otherwise excellent health and not stressed, and if treatment is appropriate, you can hopefully expect the ringworm to be eradicated within 4-8 weeks. Only on producing negative cultures should you ever assume ringworm is completely eradicated from the cats or the environment. Your vet ideally will recommend at least two negative culture results before discontinuing treatment. Again, at this point, yes, you want your OWN vet to examine the queen/kittens and make darn sure cultures were done and not just a wood's lamp exam. He will also advise you on whether the current treatment should be effective or if he feels something else might be more effective. Personally, the miconazole shampoo is ideal for the kittens. If the rescue organization's vet by chance has them on griseofulvicin, please ask your own vet about this medication, as it is not without risks and I personally would avoid it in ANY cat, unless the infection were so severe that it warranted this medication. Also, despite some opinions, it is NOT recommended to shave cats since this actually increases the spread of the spores. Very long-haired cats may require shaving prior to topical treatment, but most often this is NOT necessary.
Make an appointment with your own vet BEFORE you aquire the queen/kittens and followup on the cats' exams/cultures/treatment as he recommends.
Depending on the overall health status of both queen and kittens, as well as when the treatment started (as well as type of treatment), will depend on how long it will take to eradicate. In a shelter environment, this may take longer because adequate disinfection measures are not always done appropriately or diligently. Stress in the environment can also affect resolution, and since the queen/kittens have been or will have been in multiple environments, the stress factor is increased. Once you aquire them however, and if there are no other pets in the home, you will probably have a better chance at resolving this sooner.
Disinfect any porous surface daily (countertops, litterboxes, tile floors, etc) with a solution of bleach and water (1 part bleach to 32 parts water, please do NOT make this dilution any stronger since bleach is harsh on cats' sensitive mucous membranes etc). Vacuum carpet and rugs and furniture daily, and remove the vacuum bag daily (in trash, outside of the house). If you use towels, blankets, etc, wash them daily with bleach in the washing machine and hot water. Toys used should only be those that can be washed and dried.
Ideally, the queen/kittens should be isolated to one room or area so that you can concentrate on this area alone for disinfection. The room however, should be large enough to accomodate them all (so they can exercise and roam and play), and with food/water dishes and litterboxes on the opposite side of the room. Litterboxes should be scooped frequently each day, and thoroughly cleaned and rinsed and dried once a day, to prevent spores from spreading. Cat carriers or cages need to be disinfected as well, with the bleach and water solution and allowed to air dry if possible. If the kittens are really young and are crawling in food/water dishes etc, the dishes should be cleaned and rinsed daily as well.
Do not mix cleaners, nor use heavy scented cleaner products. Bleach and water only should be effective. Again, keep the solution diluted since you will be using it on nearly everything and in a confined area, you don't want the queen/kittens to become ill with the bleach smell or nauseated or in contact with the bleach.
I would not allow your young children to handle the kittens until treatment has been effective and that negative cultures have been obtained. As for you, you should wear gloves and a smock that you can wear in that room only (wash it daily if possible). Wash your hands and arms with bacterial soap if necessary after handling, but if you don't wear gloves when cleaning etc and take care to keep the area disinfected, you may become infected. If you feel or determine you are getting infected (rash), see your physician immediately for treatment.
If proper disinfection measures are done on a daily basis, and if the queen/kittens are in otherwise excellent health and not stressed, and if treatment is appropriate, you can hopefully expect the ringworm to be eradicated within 4-8 weeks. Only on producing negative cultures should you ever assume ringworm is completely eradicated from the cats or the environment. Your vet ideally will recommend at least two negative culture results before discontinuing treatment. Again, at this point, yes, you want your OWN vet to examine the queen/kittens and make darn sure cultures were done and not just a wood's lamp exam. He will also advise you on whether the current treatment should be effective or if he feels something else might be more effective. Personally, the miconazole shampoo is ideal for the kittens. If the rescue organization's vet by chance has them on griseofulvicin, please ask your own vet about this medication, as it is not without risks and I personally would avoid it in ANY cat, unless the infection were so severe that it warranted this medication. Also, despite some opinions, it is NOT recommended to shave cats since this actually increases the spread of the spores. Very long-haired cats may require shaving prior to topical treatment, but most often this is NOT necessary.
Make an appointment with your own vet BEFORE you aquire the queen/kittens and followup on the cats' exams/cultures/treatment as he recommends.
..........Traci
Re: ringworm question?
Thank you Cindy and Traci for all of the excellent advice and information! I will definitely be taking them into my vet for a culture before assuming they are cured. The vet that the foundation used diagnosed the family (mom and 3 kittens) by looking at them--no light and no culture. (I'm sure it is ringworm, though, because I found out that the previous shelter they were in all the cats have it and so do a few of the people.) I don't have any place to keep them quarantined, so it looks like I will need to hold off a while longer before bringing them home.
Thanks again!!
Thanks again!!
Re: ringworm question?
sounds like our shelter vetThe vet that the foundation used diagnosed the family (mom and 3 kittens) by looking at them--no light and no culture.
Re: ringworm question?
It's possible the vet had enough experience to identify it right away and based on current cases at the shelter. However, it is really bad practice not to culture suspect kittens/cats because "suspect" ringworm can be something else entirely, and even wood's lamp evaluations can produce false diagnosis since it can resemble other skin conditions, and treatment can be unnecessary, risky, and of course, a complete failure because the true diagnosis was not made properly.
Again, when were they diagnosed, and how long have they been on treatment? Does the current foster parent utilize their own vet and is the foster parent getting proper re-checks on the queen/kittens?
Again, when were they diagnosed, and how long have they been on treatment? Does the current foster parent utilize their own vet and is the foster parent getting proper re-checks on the queen/kittens?
..........Traci
Re: ringworm question?
They were taken to the vet on August 11 and started treatment that day, so it's been almost 3 weeks. The woman caring for them now says the lesions look better, don't seem to be spreading more, and are "drying up." From what I've read on-line is sounds like, though, that as long as there are still lesions present that they still have it and are still contagious.
You mentioned griseofulvicin, which they are not taking. What do you think about fuconazole? I'd never heard of either of these, but the foster mom said she gave some fuconazole to the kittens.
You mentioned griseofulvicin, which they are not taking. What do you think about fuconazole? I'd never heard of either of these, but the foster mom said she gave some fuconazole to the kittens.
Re: ringworm question?
Fluconazole has the potential of remaining in the CNS system longer and can also risk liver enzyme elevations, it is mainly prescribed for cryptococcosis in cats.
Stick with the miconazole shampoo, and follow vet's advice. It's also for this reason, I'd suggest getting the queen/kittens examined and treated by your own vet, right away. I assume the current foster parent is not getting the queen/kitten's bloodwork checked, and she may not even have been told what signs to watch for if using fluconazole (liver problems). Can you discuss that with her, and somehow get your own vet involved in their treatment? I shudder to think she gave fluconazole to the kittens without proper direction of a (qualified) vet (if in fact this is the case).
Stick with the miconazole shampoo, and follow vet's advice. It's also for this reason, I'd suggest getting the queen/kittens examined and treated by your own vet, right away. I assume the current foster parent is not getting the queen/kitten's bloodwork checked, and she may not even have been told what signs to watch for if using fluconazole (liver problems). Can you discuss that with her, and somehow get your own vet involved in their treatment? I shudder to think she gave fluconazole to the kittens without proper direction of a (qualified) vet (if in fact this is the case).
..........Traci