We adopted two rescue cats about six months ago. One of the cats is a five year old, neutered, declawed (this was done prior to our getting him, so please no flaming) male.. He will not defecate in a litter box reliably. He does urinate in the litter box every time. I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions.
The cats came from a rescue that allowed over a hundred cats to roam an entire house. The rescue people said he was completely litter trained, but I suspect that with that many cats, they'd have no way to know if one wasn't.
We've tried a host of different litters, including Cat Attract. We keep the boxes clean, scooping twice a day if needed at all. We have four boxes for two cats, in various locations around the house.
He has been to the vet repeatedly. He did have worms and another parasite when we got him, but that's been treated and he's clear of them. His stool is normal. He has an old tissue injury to one leg, but the vet said he'd healed fine and he has no problem running, jumping, etc.
If allowed to roam the house freely, he will defecate in a wide variety of surfaces, in different rooms, ranging from carpet to concrete to laminate to hardwood flooring. We've cleaned up with enzymatic cleaner, and he isn't fixated on any one spot, but will go somewhere different if he can.
We currently have him largely confined to a bathroom, the floor of which is mostly covered by litterboxes, which he will use there, provided most of the floor is covered by them. If more of the floor is available to him, he'll use the floor instead of the boxes.
I dislike keeping him confined, but cannot have him going all over the house like this. If anyone has any ideas, I'd be eternally grateful!
Cat won't defecate in the litter box
Re: Cat won't defecate in the litter box
May I ask a few questions?
What is the gender and age of the other cat?
Do the two cats get along well? Bonded?
Were they littermates or unrelated?
Do you know how long the cat in question had to stay at the rescue before adoption? Do you know any of his prior history and health history?
Do you know if he was abandoned, abused, etc?
Are you reprimanding him harshy? (not accusing, just asking).
Can you determine what is going on directly before an inappropriate elimination episode? Is he stressed, tired, intimidated, fearful etc?
Have you had prior pets in the home who had accidents and therefore might have scents lingering?
What enzymatic cleaners are you using? (brand and type)
Is he a sociable cat? Lap cat? Enjoy playing and bonding with you and other members of your family?
Did the vet examine his paws for extreme sensitivity? Some declawed cats have trouble with any type of litter, so the smoothest, finest, easiest on the paws would be the first step. I realize you said you've tried several different litters, but do make sure you take into account the actual texture of the litter, to rule out sensitivity issues.
What are you feeding the cats? (brand and type)
Has he ever had diarrhea or constipation issues?
Has he had anal gland problems that you are aware of?
Overall, and just based on your post, it sounds like he is severely stressed, or has become accustomed to inappropriate elimination and no one addressed it before you adopted him. That's a difficult behavior to change, but it can be done. Let's start with the basics first. If you can answer the questions above, that will be a start.
What is the gender and age of the other cat?
Do the two cats get along well? Bonded?
Were they littermates or unrelated?
Do you know how long the cat in question had to stay at the rescue before adoption? Do you know any of his prior history and health history?
Do you know if he was abandoned, abused, etc?
Are you reprimanding him harshy? (not accusing, just asking).
Can you determine what is going on directly before an inappropriate elimination episode? Is he stressed, tired, intimidated, fearful etc?
Have you had prior pets in the home who had accidents and therefore might have scents lingering?
What enzymatic cleaners are you using? (brand and type)
Is he a sociable cat? Lap cat? Enjoy playing and bonding with you and other members of your family?
Did the vet examine his paws for extreme sensitivity? Some declawed cats have trouble with any type of litter, so the smoothest, finest, easiest on the paws would be the first step. I realize you said you've tried several different litters, but do make sure you take into account the actual texture of the litter, to rule out sensitivity issues.
What are you feeding the cats? (brand and type)
Has he ever had diarrhea or constipation issues?
Has he had anal gland problems that you are aware of?
Overall, and just based on your post, it sounds like he is severely stressed, or has become accustomed to inappropriate elimination and no one addressed it before you adopted him. That's a difficult behavior to change, but it can be done. Let's start with the basics first. If you can answer the questions above, that will be a start.
..........Traci
Re: Cat won't defecate in the litter box
On the issue of sensitive paws...I had a cat...Callie...who was my very troublesome non-litterbox cat..she preferred the kitchen floor, just outside the litterbox...I finally just left one EMPTY....I put rocks in the corners to weight it because she was also a side percher...and she often times used that....it was the smooth surface...
Hopefully with Traci's questions...you can begin to pay detective and figure things out!
Hopefully with Traci's questions...you can begin to pay detective and figure things out!
What is the gender and age of the other cat?
The other cat is a female, about 5 years old. She's also declawed and lost an eye before we got her.
Do the two cats get along well? Bonded?
They largely ignore each other. They don't fight at all, but aren't particularly bonded, either.
Were they littermates or unrelated?
Unrelated.
Do you know how long the cat in question had to stay at the rescue before adoption? Do you know any of his prior history and health history?
He was there for about 6-8 months. They found him abandoned in a dumpster, so no early health history. They had him checked by a vet, where he got his shots. He had the tissue injury to his leg at that time when he was found and the rescue had it fixed. At one time, he probably had a pretty bad ear mite infection because his ears are a little thickened and bumpy, and that's what our vet attributed it to.
Do you know if he was abandoned, abused, etc?
Just what I wrote above. He was obviously somebody's cat at some point, because they had him declawed.
No, not reprimanding him at all.Are you reprimanding him harshy? (not accusing, just asking).
I don't see any stressors that happen before he sneaks off to poop. Usually, he's just been lying around on the couch right before.Can you determine what is going on directly before an inappropriate elimination episode? Is he stressed, tired, intimidated, fearful etc?
Have you had prior pets in the home who had accidents and therefore might have scents lingering?
We've had several cats over the years, most recently one that passed away about two years ago. But she never had accidents. We also do have a dog, but the dog is cat friendly and the cat doesn't seem at all bothered by the dog.
We currently have a jug of Nature's Miracle. We've used other brands, but I don't recall off hand what they are. I remove the waste, clean the area with water first and then soak with the enzymatic cleaner.What enzymatic cleaners are you using? (brand and type)
Is he a sociable cat? Lap cat? Enjoy playing and bonding with you and other members of your family?
He's a bit of a character. He's got that cocky tomcat thing going on. He will climb in our laps on the couch and likes to be petted and scratched. But he also will bite (not hard) out of the blue. He also will try sometimes to sort of mount my hand after he's been petted for some time. He's not the most affectionate cat I've ever had, but he's not the most aloof, either.
The vet did look at his paws and didn't see anything unusual. I've tried a natural brand of litter that's very fine and smooth. He doesn't like it any better than more standard clumping litter, maybe even less.Did the vet examine his paws for extreme sensitivity? Some declawed cats have trouble with any type of litter, so the smoothest, finest, easiest on the paws would be the first step. I realize you said you've tried several different litters, but do make sure you take into account the actual texture of the litter, to rule out sensitivity issues.
When we got him from the rescue, he was eating Science Diet. We kept him on that for a few months as he was used to it. The vet suggested with try something with beet pulp as she said she'd seen some pets with soiling problems improve. We feed him Eukanuba Hairball formula now because of the beet pulp.What are you feeding the cats? (brand and type)
Has he ever had diarrhea or constipation issues?
He had diarrhea when we first got him. He had worms and another parasite at that time and we had it treated. He also had it when we switched his food, even though we mixed it in with the old stuff to start. But he got over that in a day or two. After that his stools seemed normal. I haven't noticed straining.
He is a big cat. He was quite overweight when we first got him, because the rescue had unlimited food out all the time. On the advice of the vet, we are trying to gradually have him lose weight, and he has. He's still somewhat overweight, but he's considerably better than he was.
I have noticed that sometimes he seems to have a hard time getting comfortable in the litter. He sort of dances around a bit. We got the biggest litter pan known to catkind so that he would be more comfortable,and he will use this one preferentially in the bathroom where he's confined over the smaller pan also in there.
But we also have the huge litter pans in other parts of the house, and he won't use them voluntarily.
Has he had anal gland problems that you are aware of?
No. Actually I wondered about that too, and my husband asked the vet the last time we had him in, but she was very dismissive of that being a possibility.
I think the rescue was a very stressful situation, to be honest. They are nice people doing an impossible job. But they have literally over a hundred cats roaming around in a small house, which I'm sure is stressful for the cats, with a constant influx of newcomers.Overall, and just based on your post, it sounds like he is severely stressed, or has become accustomed to inappropriate elimination and no one addressed it before you adopted him. That's a difficult behavior to change, but it can be done. Let's start with the basics first. If you can answer the questions above, that will be a start.
I don't sense that he's terribly stressed in our house, other than the elimination problem, but of course, I could be wrong. I would guess that he probably had this problem at the rescue, but with that many cats, they'd never know who was the one pooping on the floor. They did try to keep it clean and did a good job, but it's overwhelming.
Thank you for taking the time to ask me all this!!!
Thank you SOOOOO much for answering the questions. It sounds like you've taken all the proper steps to resolve the situation. And it sounds like you are committed to working to resolve this, for that I say thank you! Many times, owners are too quick to give up or can't be bothered to commit to the resolve.
Now, please don't take this wrong, but perhaps the steps need to be taken anew, and in different order. The following link (from a feline behaviorist) describes in much detail how, when and in what circumstances you can take each step, it is extremely helpful in helping owners discover what they might be overlooking.
http://www.hilltopanimalhospital.com/fe ... iling1.htm
When you read that link, then please read the following study, which suggests that the above techniques are successful in the majority of cases. Remember that some of this relates to urine marking, but the same applies to defecation. There is an equal amount of information for both urination and defecation problems.
http://www.animalsandsociety.org/assets ... 050404.pdf
See if you can spot some things you might have done differently or might have overlooked. Then work on them one at a time.
In addition to the information in the links, I would suggest the following:
- While still confined in the bathroom, how ever many of the large boxes will fit and still allow YOU to access the bathroom, put them side by side and choose a different litter for each box. Don't put them haphazard around the floor, keep them side by side so kitty has the choice to determine which he is most comfortable with. Observe, observe observe, and try not to interfere with whatever he does. If he starts eliminating somewhere OTHER than one of the boxes, say his name combined with a vocal "NO", then physically place him in one of the litterboxes (hopefully the one he has already chosen his favorite). Be consistent.
- Observe contents in the litterboxes. Determine which is generally used for urine, and which is otherwise used for defecation. Have on hand a generous amount of whatever litter type he chooses for defecation. Each day, replace another box with the chosen litter, and so on until after a few or several days, all litterboxes contain the litter he seems to prefer (for defecation only, don't worry about urination if he isn't spraying and marking or urinating inappropriately).
- If after several days and he is using the litterboxes in the bathroom, start removing a litterbox from the room each day or two, until eventually you have only two boxes left, each containing his preferred litter. The largest boxes should be the ones that remain, since it sounds like he prefers them.
- Pay attention to his preference of covered vs uncovered litterboxes. Most cats prefer UN-covered.
- DO praise him for good behavior, for every time he uses the litterbox, give a special treat, say "GOOD BOY!", or spend extra time with him with cuddling, playing, bonding, etc. He needs to learn to associate this experience with something favorable.
As for cleanup and using cleaners:
Nature's Miracle, to my knowledge is no longer what it used to be. The proprietary ingredients in the original Nature's Miracle belong to Petastic. Nature's Miracle resembles simple alcohol in ability to remove scents and/or stains, but some cats associate it the same as if you've used bleach, ammonia etc, usually no-no's for cats.
- There's two products I would recommend, based on my experience. One is Ceva Urine Away, the other is MisterMax's Anti-Icky-Poo. The former, somewhat pricey and recommended to use with Feliway plugins as a combination "treatment" for house-soiling. The latter more cost-effective and even comes in gallon-size. Both work, both are tried and true enzymatic cleaners, and both can be used as such that a small residue can be left on the areas you've cleaned, without harming most surfaces. Anti-Icky-Poo can be diluted slightly with water to save you costs. Ceva's Urine Away must NOT be diluted. Used every single day, either product can be helpful to "condition" the cat to start using the litterbox because the prior scents are really, truthfully removed and won't linger which encourages the cat to re-use the area. Neither product are offensive to YOU when you use them, they are lightly scented, smell sort of like bath soap but dissipate quickly, and to the cat, the scent is pleasing and when it has dried, there is scent at all, which is the intention for the cat.
- While I don't often recommend Feliway, due to the fact it won't work for every cat, I believe that when used in combination with the correct cleaning product as well as conditioning the cat to get him to use the litterbox, it is invaluable. It comes in both spray and plug-in form and to get the best results, I really recommend using both. If you can afford an investment, invest in a few plugins (called diffusers), AND a few sprays, since the spray bottles are tiny and don't last long. Expect anywhere from one month to three months of continued use. The spray can be used on virtually anything, but does leave a slight film if you use it on wood, tile, painted walls etc, simply gently wipe off the residue.
The Feliway acts as a calming method for the cat, but it should only be expected to work when used consistently and for the recommended time (1-3 months depending upon the cat's progress and when combined with other behavioral training.)
- I would suggest investing at least in the immediate sense, one or two plug-ins for the bathroom, and 2 spray bottles. You can spray anywhere you want (one quick spray goes a long way, spray only the areas where you DON'T want him to eliminate, but do NOT spray the litterboxes, near his food dish, etc.), just don't spray when the cat is nearby. Let the spray dissipate before allowing the cat back into the room (you don't want him inhaling it!), The spray should be every single day, just as the plug-in is working every single day. In a bathroom, you should only use one diffuser. Use another one in another room he most frequents so that he is familiar with the scent. In an ideal situation, you would want a diffuser in every room that he has inappropriately eliminated in, but you can get away with only a few in the home as long as you monitor them and ensure they are working and refilled when necessary.
If you can afford to buy in bulk, it would be cheaper with the Feliway, you can get it for the best prices (at least where I've found) at entirelypets.com
Here's their Feliway product page.
From what little history you've been able to provide, it sounds like abandonment, severe stress in a multicat household, no real one-on-one attention, and perhaps months of missed and unattended behavior which means: as much as the rescue tried to help, they in fact may have unknowingly encouraged the problem since it probably wasn't addressed appropriately, let alone consistently.
Please remember that the environment he was in was quite a long time, and obviously very stressful. So, he has probably carried a lot of stress and it has become transient. (occurrances months ago but he's displaying displeasure now, months later).
Tip: when choosing litter, unscented, clumping, easy on the feet, and proper litterbox location all crucial to the comfort of the cat.
If you're willing to start here, then I'm more than happy to help you follow progress and help you through any steps you're unsure of. This won't happen overnight, and it will take a strong committment on your part, but I have a feeling you ARE committed and that you love kitty very much. God knows he's had a tough start in life and he deserves a good home/life with you. Please post any other questions you may have and let us know any progress.
There is yet another step in this equation, that which involves favorable interaction with the other cat. We can work on this a bit later, I think the important thing is taking some steps toward getting kitty out of confinement and back into a comfortable living space
Now, please don't take this wrong, but perhaps the steps need to be taken anew, and in different order. The following link (from a feline behaviorist) describes in much detail how, when and in what circumstances you can take each step, it is extremely helpful in helping owners discover what they might be overlooking.
http://www.hilltopanimalhospital.com/fe ... iling1.htm
When you read that link, then please read the following study, which suggests that the above techniques are successful in the majority of cases. Remember that some of this relates to urine marking, but the same applies to defecation. There is an equal amount of information for both urination and defecation problems.
http://www.animalsandsociety.org/assets ... 050404.pdf
See if you can spot some things you might have done differently or might have overlooked. Then work on them one at a time.
In addition to the information in the links, I would suggest the following:
- While still confined in the bathroom, how ever many of the large boxes will fit and still allow YOU to access the bathroom, put them side by side and choose a different litter for each box. Don't put them haphazard around the floor, keep them side by side so kitty has the choice to determine which he is most comfortable with. Observe, observe observe, and try not to interfere with whatever he does. If he starts eliminating somewhere OTHER than one of the boxes, say his name combined with a vocal "NO", then physically place him in one of the litterboxes (hopefully the one he has already chosen his favorite). Be consistent.
- Observe contents in the litterboxes. Determine which is generally used for urine, and which is otherwise used for defecation. Have on hand a generous amount of whatever litter type he chooses for defecation. Each day, replace another box with the chosen litter, and so on until after a few or several days, all litterboxes contain the litter he seems to prefer (for defecation only, don't worry about urination if he isn't spraying and marking or urinating inappropriately).
- If after several days and he is using the litterboxes in the bathroom, start removing a litterbox from the room each day or two, until eventually you have only two boxes left, each containing his preferred litter. The largest boxes should be the ones that remain, since it sounds like he prefers them.
- Pay attention to his preference of covered vs uncovered litterboxes. Most cats prefer UN-covered.
- DO praise him for good behavior, for every time he uses the litterbox, give a special treat, say "GOOD BOY!", or spend extra time with him with cuddling, playing, bonding, etc. He needs to learn to associate this experience with something favorable.
As for cleanup and using cleaners:
Nature's Miracle, to my knowledge is no longer what it used to be. The proprietary ingredients in the original Nature's Miracle belong to Petastic. Nature's Miracle resembles simple alcohol in ability to remove scents and/or stains, but some cats associate it the same as if you've used bleach, ammonia etc, usually no-no's for cats.
- There's two products I would recommend, based on my experience. One is Ceva Urine Away, the other is MisterMax's Anti-Icky-Poo. The former, somewhat pricey and recommended to use with Feliway plugins as a combination "treatment" for house-soiling. The latter more cost-effective and even comes in gallon-size. Both work, both are tried and true enzymatic cleaners, and both can be used as such that a small residue can be left on the areas you've cleaned, without harming most surfaces. Anti-Icky-Poo can be diluted slightly with water to save you costs. Ceva's Urine Away must NOT be diluted. Used every single day, either product can be helpful to "condition" the cat to start using the litterbox because the prior scents are really, truthfully removed and won't linger which encourages the cat to re-use the area. Neither product are offensive to YOU when you use them, they are lightly scented, smell sort of like bath soap but dissipate quickly, and to the cat, the scent is pleasing and when it has dried, there is scent at all, which is the intention for the cat.
- While I don't often recommend Feliway, due to the fact it won't work for every cat, I believe that when used in combination with the correct cleaning product as well as conditioning the cat to get him to use the litterbox, it is invaluable. It comes in both spray and plug-in form and to get the best results, I really recommend using both. If you can afford an investment, invest in a few plugins (called diffusers), AND a few sprays, since the spray bottles are tiny and don't last long. Expect anywhere from one month to three months of continued use. The spray can be used on virtually anything, but does leave a slight film if you use it on wood, tile, painted walls etc, simply gently wipe off the residue.
The Feliway acts as a calming method for the cat, but it should only be expected to work when used consistently and for the recommended time (1-3 months depending upon the cat's progress and when combined with other behavioral training.)
- I would suggest investing at least in the immediate sense, one or two plug-ins for the bathroom, and 2 spray bottles. You can spray anywhere you want (one quick spray goes a long way, spray only the areas where you DON'T want him to eliminate, but do NOT spray the litterboxes, near his food dish, etc.), just don't spray when the cat is nearby. Let the spray dissipate before allowing the cat back into the room (you don't want him inhaling it!), The spray should be every single day, just as the plug-in is working every single day. In a bathroom, you should only use one diffuser. Use another one in another room he most frequents so that he is familiar with the scent. In an ideal situation, you would want a diffuser in every room that he has inappropriately eliminated in, but you can get away with only a few in the home as long as you monitor them and ensure they are working and refilled when necessary.
If you can afford to buy in bulk, it would be cheaper with the Feliway, you can get it for the best prices (at least where I've found) at entirelypets.com
Here's their Feliway product page.
From what little history you've been able to provide, it sounds like abandonment, severe stress in a multicat household, no real one-on-one attention, and perhaps months of missed and unattended behavior which means: as much as the rescue tried to help, they in fact may have unknowingly encouraged the problem since it probably wasn't addressed appropriately, let alone consistently.
Please remember that the environment he was in was quite a long time, and obviously very stressful. So, he has probably carried a lot of stress and it has become transient. (occurrances months ago but he's displaying displeasure now, months later).
Tip: when choosing litter, unscented, clumping, easy on the feet, and proper litterbox location all crucial to the comfort of the cat.
If you're willing to start here, then I'm more than happy to help you follow progress and help you through any steps you're unsure of. This won't happen overnight, and it will take a strong committment on your part, but I have a feeling you ARE committed and that you love kitty very much. God knows he's had a tough start in life and he deserves a good home/life with you. Please post any other questions you may have and let us know any progress.
There is yet another step in this equation, that which involves favorable interaction with the other cat. We can work on this a bit later, I think the important thing is taking some steps toward getting kitty out of confinement and back into a comfortable living space
..........Traci
Thank you so much. It's helpful to have somebody to kick this around wth, because I haven't found much useful or relevant online or in books--mostly what I find is about urination, and he's just fine in that department. And I like our vet, but her forte is medicine, not behavior.
I will buy the products you mention tomorrow and read the articles.
A few things I forgot to mention... None of them may be relevant, but more info might be better than less.
The food is dry kibble as to type.
The litterbox that he seems to like best in the bathroom is actually not a litter box per se. It's one of those big, low sided plastic underbed storage boxes with no cover. I assume this is OK to use for litter? We don't use covered boxes at all. I've never seen a cat who likes those, although maybe some do. We also have one of the same type of underbed boxes in a different location, but he won't use it.
The cat also had dental problems. We had the vet do a cleaning under anesthesia, and she had to remove an infected tooth. Before the procedure, he had very bad breath, which is somewhat better, and he also seems to eat with more comfort now.
He has very waxy ears. The vet didn't find mites, which he was treated for at the rescue, but she gave us stuff to clean his ears, which we do every month or so. He doesn't exactly thank us for it, but I think it does make his ears feel better. If we need to mess with him, like cleaning his ears or giving him a pill, he struggles and we have to wrap him in a towel to get it done. Every cat I've ever had has been like this though.
My husband and I both work full time, and we have kids with lots of evening lessons and activities. So, we aren't watching the cats all day. We do spend time with them, but I don't see the cat eliminate all that often as I'm just not there to watch. It will be somewhat better in the summer as dh is a teacher and will be home with the kids more. I don't think this causes the cat separation anxiety or anything.
I will buy the products you mention tomorrow and read the articles.
A few things I forgot to mention... None of them may be relevant, but more info might be better than less.
The food is dry kibble as to type.
The litterbox that he seems to like best in the bathroom is actually not a litter box per se. It's one of those big, low sided plastic underbed storage boxes with no cover. I assume this is OK to use for litter? We don't use covered boxes at all. I've never seen a cat who likes those, although maybe some do. We also have one of the same type of underbed boxes in a different location, but he won't use it.
The cat also had dental problems. We had the vet do a cleaning under anesthesia, and she had to remove an infected tooth. Before the procedure, he had very bad breath, which is somewhat better, and he also seems to eat with more comfort now.
He has very waxy ears. The vet didn't find mites, which he was treated for at the rescue, but she gave us stuff to clean his ears, which we do every month or so. He doesn't exactly thank us for it, but I think it does make his ears feel better. If we need to mess with him, like cleaning his ears or giving him a pill, he struggles and we have to wrap him in a towel to get it done. Every cat I've ever had has been like this though.
My husband and I both work full time, and we have kids with lots of evening lessons and activities. So, we aren't watching the cats all day. We do spend time with them, but I don't see the cat eliminate all that often as I'm just not there to watch. It will be somewhat better in the summer as dh is a teacher and will be home with the kids more. I don't think this causes the cat separation anxiety or anything.
Re: Cat won't defecate in the litter box
There's no problem using plastic storage boxes as litterboxes and in fact, for larger size cats, they are great, as long as the sides are not too tall to make it uncomfortable to get in and out of. For this purpose, if the sides are too tall, owners just cut out an entry on the front of the box.
One thing about these storage boxes, however, they are more prone to scratches, and will accumulate/maintain odors worse than regular litterboxes, due to the different type of plastic used in manufacturing. Mars and scratches are where bacteria and odors tend to linger. So just make sure you thoroughly clean the box in soapy water and rinse well each week.
I'm sure you're aware of appropriate litterbox location, but just to be sure, make sure all the other boxes are in quiet, private areas. NOT dark, damp areas, and NOT near heavy foot traffic areas and NOT near heavy, noisy appliances. In some environments, it is difficult to find proper litterbox location, but you have to be creative and make the area private, yet easily accessible. Preferrably away from areas where the family has a lot of activity (diningroom, kitchen, livingroom, etc). Also, depending on the ages of your kids, away from their bedrooms and closets. Make sure the litterboxes are also not close to food and water dishes.
Of course, some health conditions can cause behavior issues, including inappropriate elimination. However, as long as the ears are checked frequently, monitored by your vet, this probably isn't a primary cause for the behavior, it is more likely due to a "learned" behavior because no one previously addressed it. This is why it will take some time to resolve, but don't get discouraged, as long as you are committed, and remain consistent in the steps and routine, things should start improving.
Please ask all of your family members to pitch in and follow the steps/routine. Any deviation from routine can undo everything you've tried to accomplish. Ask all family members to be as consistent as you are. However, if you are the primary "caretaker" and do all of the feeding, litterbox duty, etc, then the cat generally looks to YOU for structure, guidance, respect etc. The remaining family members should be responsible for spending quality time, loving, bonding, grooming, playtime, etc (Designate a playtime session each day at a certain time for example, a routine so kitty looks forward to the time and it will help increase his comfort level).
Make sure you're getting regular check-ups with the vet for the ear problem. In a normal, healthy cat, frequent ear wax accumulation shouldn't be an issue. If he's stressed, he may not be normally grooming himself.
Unfortunately, no cat appreciates medicating, and certainly not messing with their ears, the ears are super-sensitive and if there is wax buildup, mites, infection, etc, the ears itch, inflame, are painful and sensitive. Hopefully the vet prescribed an earwash that is appropriate and gently cleans the ears without leaving additional residue. The trick with any kind of medical administration is to be gentle and quick about it, and reward the cat afterward (treats, toys, playtime), so he can associate the procedure as something as pleasant as possible. If you're slow and methodical, it will be more stressful for him. Granted it's important for procedures to be done correctly, just try to be quick about it. If the mite infestation was serious at the time, it's possible delayed or inappropriate treatment worsened the situation and caused some tissue damage (resulting in the bumps, thickened ear etc). But, it could also be something else, like yeast, so next time you're at the vets, consider talking about a culture to make sure yeast or bacteria are completely ruled out. Food allergies also can cause this problem, but generally it would be a very chronic condition and sometimes the face and neck have lesions as well with some food allergies. Talk to your vet about this, chances are, he doesn't have food allergies, but you do want to make sure that is ruled out. A typical approach for suspected food allergies is a hypoallergenic diet trial, nothing invasive.
The dental problem probably has little to do with the current behavior since the dental corrected the oral health issue. Please make sure he gets a regular oral health exam each year, so your vet can determine if tarter or plaque may need to be removed. The sooner any accumulation of tarter and plaque can be removed, the better to keep the teeth in good condition and prevent pain and infection. This applies to ANY cat.
Doubtful of seperation anxiety, however, he could probably use a lot of attention, love, playtime sessions etc. Remember his previous environment and god only knows what before then, so he is probably very wanting for some special attention. Even though you've had him for 6 months, he is probably adjusted, feels secure, but you never know with a cat you have no prior history for. This is where the mention of taking another step with the other cat can be helpful. Encouraging a relationship between the two cats can also help behavior problems, and help them both feel more adjusted and secure. It is good they don't fight, but it's not so good that they basically ignore each other. When the family is gone all day, it is helpful for the cats to have a relationship to keep each other company, play together, bond together and overall appreciate each other because as much as we humans try, we are not felines, and domesticated felines appreciate having another feline to keep them healthy and well-adjusted.
Is the female adjusted, happy and healthy? With the loss of the eye, is she overall happy and feeling secure? Or, does she withdraw, retreat, etc?
Lastly, what is the relationship like between the cats and other members of the family? Do each of them spend quality time with and give each cat equal attention? Have the cats each chosen their "person"?
One thing about these storage boxes, however, they are more prone to scratches, and will accumulate/maintain odors worse than regular litterboxes, due to the different type of plastic used in manufacturing. Mars and scratches are where bacteria and odors tend to linger. So just make sure you thoroughly clean the box in soapy water and rinse well each week.
I'm sure you're aware of appropriate litterbox location, but just to be sure, make sure all the other boxes are in quiet, private areas. NOT dark, damp areas, and NOT near heavy foot traffic areas and NOT near heavy, noisy appliances. In some environments, it is difficult to find proper litterbox location, but you have to be creative and make the area private, yet easily accessible. Preferrably away from areas where the family has a lot of activity (diningroom, kitchen, livingroom, etc). Also, depending on the ages of your kids, away from their bedrooms and closets. Make sure the litterboxes are also not close to food and water dishes.
Of course, some health conditions can cause behavior issues, including inappropriate elimination. However, as long as the ears are checked frequently, monitored by your vet, this probably isn't a primary cause for the behavior, it is more likely due to a "learned" behavior because no one previously addressed it. This is why it will take some time to resolve, but don't get discouraged, as long as you are committed, and remain consistent in the steps and routine, things should start improving.
Please ask all of your family members to pitch in and follow the steps/routine. Any deviation from routine can undo everything you've tried to accomplish. Ask all family members to be as consistent as you are. However, if you are the primary "caretaker" and do all of the feeding, litterbox duty, etc, then the cat generally looks to YOU for structure, guidance, respect etc. The remaining family members should be responsible for spending quality time, loving, bonding, grooming, playtime, etc (Designate a playtime session each day at a certain time for example, a routine so kitty looks forward to the time and it will help increase his comfort level).
Make sure you're getting regular check-ups with the vet for the ear problem. In a normal, healthy cat, frequent ear wax accumulation shouldn't be an issue. If he's stressed, he may not be normally grooming himself.
Unfortunately, no cat appreciates medicating, and certainly not messing with their ears, the ears are super-sensitive and if there is wax buildup, mites, infection, etc, the ears itch, inflame, are painful and sensitive. Hopefully the vet prescribed an earwash that is appropriate and gently cleans the ears without leaving additional residue. The trick with any kind of medical administration is to be gentle and quick about it, and reward the cat afterward (treats, toys, playtime), so he can associate the procedure as something as pleasant as possible. If you're slow and methodical, it will be more stressful for him. Granted it's important for procedures to be done correctly, just try to be quick about it. If the mite infestation was serious at the time, it's possible delayed or inappropriate treatment worsened the situation and caused some tissue damage (resulting in the bumps, thickened ear etc). But, it could also be something else, like yeast, so next time you're at the vets, consider talking about a culture to make sure yeast or bacteria are completely ruled out. Food allergies also can cause this problem, but generally it would be a very chronic condition and sometimes the face and neck have lesions as well with some food allergies. Talk to your vet about this, chances are, he doesn't have food allergies, but you do want to make sure that is ruled out. A typical approach for suspected food allergies is a hypoallergenic diet trial, nothing invasive.
The dental problem probably has little to do with the current behavior since the dental corrected the oral health issue. Please make sure he gets a regular oral health exam each year, so your vet can determine if tarter or plaque may need to be removed. The sooner any accumulation of tarter and plaque can be removed, the better to keep the teeth in good condition and prevent pain and infection. This applies to ANY cat.
Doubtful of seperation anxiety, however, he could probably use a lot of attention, love, playtime sessions etc. Remember his previous environment and god only knows what before then, so he is probably very wanting for some special attention. Even though you've had him for 6 months, he is probably adjusted, feels secure, but you never know with a cat you have no prior history for. This is where the mention of taking another step with the other cat can be helpful. Encouraging a relationship between the two cats can also help behavior problems, and help them both feel more adjusted and secure. It is good they don't fight, but it's not so good that they basically ignore each other. When the family is gone all day, it is helpful for the cats to have a relationship to keep each other company, play together, bond together and overall appreciate each other because as much as we humans try, we are not felines, and domesticated felines appreciate having another feline to keep them healthy and well-adjusted.
Is the female adjusted, happy and healthy? With the loss of the eye, is she overall happy and feeling secure? Or, does she withdraw, retreat, etc?
Lastly, what is the relationship like between the cats and other members of the family? Do each of them spend quality time with and give each cat equal attention? Have the cats each chosen their "person"?
..........Traci
Re: Cat won't defecate in the litter box
I only use storage totes 
They are cheaper than regular litterboxes...
larger than regular litterboxes...and for the males that do not always sqat to urinate, the sides are high enough that it still stays INSIDE the litterbox!!
As Traci said...I just cut an entry hole in the end for them, high enough from the bottom to keep litter in and big enough for the biggest cat to get into...I have a serrated knife that I heat and use just for this purpose...
Yes, I take them out and wash and hose them down then dry in the sun each week...one at a time...I have multiples as well...
When they start to get to cruddy looking or have a lingering odor...I just toss them and get a new one...they are cheap enough...
One thing I do also do is spray them with a product called Zero Odor...then still let them dry in the sun before filling fresh...
getting creative can be hard...especially with more than one...or two...I actually have an underbed box in my living room underneath a large square corner table right by the couch!! The table is high enough that the box and a cat standing in it are comfortable...and deep enough that quite a large (L X W) box fits underneath and no one knows!!
This is also the box that gets used the most.
I have a couple in my kitchen, but my kitchen is large enough that I can have them away from food prep areas for sanitary reasons as well as a quiet area...one is at the end of a counter, in a corner, near the utility closet...the other near the basement door, and we do not go down there every day...
Entry hall...again underneath a sewing machine cabinet...
Upstairs in the bathroom...and if you can find it and the cats like it...the arm & hammer flushable litter is great for that room...every time you or a family member uses the restroom, scoop the litterbox and flush it away!!!
The extra tote lids....they get used underneath the Drinkwell Platinum Water Fountain to catch spills from those who like to play!!!
...Or they can be used when doing transplanting or any kind of messy work to keep it contained and easy to carry away and clean up!!
They are cheaper than regular litterboxes...
larger than regular litterboxes...and for the males that do not always sqat to urinate, the sides are high enough that it still stays INSIDE the litterbox!!
As Traci said...I just cut an entry hole in the end for them, high enough from the bottom to keep litter in and big enough for the biggest cat to get into...I have a serrated knife that I heat and use just for this purpose...
Yes, I take them out and wash and hose them down then dry in the sun each week...one at a time...I have multiples as well...
When they start to get to cruddy looking or have a lingering odor...I just toss them and get a new one...they are cheap enough...
One thing I do also do is spray them with a product called Zero Odor...then still let them dry in the sun before filling fresh...
getting creative can be hard...especially with more than one...or two...I actually have an underbed box in my living room underneath a large square corner table right by the couch!! The table is high enough that the box and a cat standing in it are comfortable...and deep enough that quite a large (L X W) box fits underneath and no one knows!!
This is also the box that gets used the most.
I have a couple in my kitchen, but my kitchen is large enough that I can have them away from food prep areas for sanitary reasons as well as a quiet area...one is at the end of a counter, in a corner, near the utility closet...the other near the basement door, and we do not go down there every day...
Entry hall...again underneath a sewing machine cabinet...
Upstairs in the bathroom...and if you can find it and the cats like it...the arm & hammer flushable litter is great for that room...every time you or a family member uses the restroom, scoop the litterbox and flush it away!!!
The extra tote lids....they get used underneath the Drinkwell Platinum Water Fountain to catch spills from those who like to play!!!
...Or they can be used when doing transplanting or any kind of messy work to keep it contained and easy to carry away and clean up!!
Re: Cat won't defecate in the litter box
TGPDD, it might help to know that Tambrey and I, along with a few others on our forum are multi-cat households, and I do mean MULTI-cat Not that we don't have the occasional accident, but there's a lot of shared knowledge and tricks here.
If we can do it, you can too, hopefully this will encourage you
Not that we don't have the occasional accident, but there's a lot of shared knowledge and tricks here.If we can do it, you can too, hopefully this will encourage you
..........Traci
Re: Cat won't defecate in the litter box
The female is the one I initially thought was going to need more work. I think she was really overwhelmed at the rescue. She hardly came out from under the bed for the first two months, except to eat and use the litter.
A few days after we got her, I thought she'd had a stroke. She would fall over constantly, held her head at an angle and couldn't jump onto the bed without falling. It turns out that her ears were totally stuffed with wax. The vet cleaned them out a few times, and we continued to do it at home, and the problem went away.
She's a small cat and tends to be skittish, but has gotten much better though. She's not one to sit in your lap, but she will sit up on the back of the couch. She likes to stand on furniture to be petted. Despite the missing eye, she's agile, and my biggest problem with her behavior is keeping her off the kitchen counters. She also will randomly sprint down the hall and stop suddenly. We call it doing a Kramer, like the Seinfeld show.
She's got the run of the house all the time, and she sleeps on the bed with one of the kids. My girls are 9 and 12 and are good with the animals. Because of the elimination problem, we don't give the male the run of the house, which drives the girls crazy! She likes both girls and doesn't really show a preference to any of us.
I will try to get them to interact more. It's catnip season in my yard, so I might start clipping some to get them to play with.
I was hoping that by confining the male in the bathroom, he would get in the habit of using the litter over time. Obviously, the goal is to get him out with the family and let him have the run of the house eventually, too.
A few days after we got her, I thought she'd had a stroke. She would fall over constantly, held her head at an angle and couldn't jump onto the bed without falling. It turns out that her ears were totally stuffed with wax. The vet cleaned them out a few times, and we continued to do it at home, and the problem went away.
She's a small cat and tends to be skittish, but has gotten much better though. She's not one to sit in your lap, but she will sit up on the back of the couch. She likes to stand on furniture to be petted. Despite the missing eye, she's agile, and my biggest problem with her behavior is keeping her off the kitchen counters. She also will randomly sprint down the hall and stop suddenly. We call it doing a Kramer, like the Seinfeld show.
She's got the run of the house all the time, and she sleeps on the bed with one of the kids. My girls are 9 and 12 and are good with the animals. Because of the elimination problem, we don't give the male the run of the house, which drives the girls crazy! She likes both girls and doesn't really show a preference to any of us.
I will try to get them to interact more. It's catnip season in my yard, so I might start clipping some to get them to play with.
I was hoping that by confining the male in the bathroom, he would get in the habit of using the litter over time. Obviously, the goal is to get him out with the family and let him have the run of the house eventually, too.